Pass the bottle

Every night so far has been a wine night, but alas, that is difficult in a Muslim country. Wine is sold here, in liquor stores and some supermarkets, but we have yet to find it.

Most of the nights have been exhausting, frustrating, powerless nights; we still have no reliable Internet without standing outside our upstairs neighbor’s door, and people who agree to help us—realtors, friends of friends who are Moroccan, people who can get us access to the Internet—don’t call us back when they say they will. We run errands during the day, going out into the noisy, congested streets for food or to enroll in school and buy books, following up on the two or three odd apartment listings that we were able to read leaning out over the balcony to catch the Internet from across the street. It sounds funny until you try it.

But there has also been what should have been a celebratory wine night. I had an encouraging interview at the American school here, and I should be going on their tutor list and possibly their substitute teacher list, too.

The difficult days are not all difficult, of course. Yesterday we got to see dozens of men streaming into the mosque, prayer rugs tucked under their arm, seeking out a seat on the sidewalk outside the mosque when presumably all the space inside was filled. And in spending nearly three hours to get enrolled in my French class, I found I could produce enough French to be placed one level up in A2, though not enough French to communicate with the 6-year-old Moroccan girl taking the test next to me who was so curious about what I was doing there. Oh, and delicious, beautiful tomatoes cost about ten cents apiece.

A couple days ago Colin shared with me an article about wine production in Morocco. The American reporter found his way out to a vineyard run by a Frenchman who is breaking wine-making rules that would be unbendable in France to produce exciting and delicious new wines that are distinctively Moroccan, all with the blessing of the King.

That’s reason enough to redouble our efforts and find a bottle or two.


3 responses

  1. Hi,
    It is good to follow your adventures since we met in Mongolia. I have spent time where you are now, but let me know if you do roam further east as I still have friends that are living in Tunisia, who may be able to help and you would possibly find interesting. Of course they are Kiwis. You can get me at tony.mcglinn at

  2. If need be I will ship (illegally) a case of charles shaw to you guys. One should never be without wine.

    And congrats on your lead at the American school! They’d be lucky to have you.

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